Posts Tagged 'image editing workshop lower main land bc'

Quick Portrait Retouching Techniques in Photoshop and Elements

Do you take pretty good photos already, but want to make them great? Looking for that quick way to make your portraits stand out? There are many many tools available to you when editing images in Photoshop or Elements, so many that one can go way overboard or not even know where to begin. Come join me for a class designed to cut to the chase and get the job done. Learn how to quickly identify areas that need adjustment, and then zero in on the tools necessary to make the adjustments as efficiently as possible. Give your image that extra pop and a clean, sharp feel in Quick Portrait Retouching Techniques.

In this class, we will learn how to find the flaws in your image. We will then go through the 6 areas that you are most likely to want to adjust in each portrait image you edit. For beginners, this class will give you a great starting point. For intermediate Photoshop users, it may simply smooth out your work flow and speed up your editing time.

Bring along some of your own portraits to work with and we will have a hands-on editing time tailored to your type of images and your unique challenges! This 3 hours will be well worth it! This class comes on Saturday, November 2nd, just in time for all your Christmas photos, and just after the Model Photography Workshop; so, some of you will have fresh, amazing images to work with!

A nicely framed and exposed photo can look okay...

A nicely framed and exposed photo can look okay…

But a few touch-ups can make a world of difference!

But a few touch-ups can make a world of difference!

Looking forward to all the fun we will have! And I really do LOVE this stuff! Please register quickly so that you can be sure to save your spot!

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It’s all about SKIN texture

Skin texture and Model Photography

Another quick reminder that David’s 2 part, Model Photography class is coming up quickly! If you want to learn a more high-fashion style of photographing people, you will want to be there. This class is NOT for men only! Women interested in shooting boudoir photos will also find this to be a valuable workshop to attend.

Below, David talks a little about  an important topic when photographing models.

It’s all about SKIN

In portrait photography, skin plays a very important role. For example, in glamour photography, there is a lot more skin than clothing in the image. What the photographer does in his/her post work can either make or break the image, when it comes to skin. We have all seen those images where the photographer has made the model’s skin look more like a plastic Barbie doll than human skin! So, the trick is to make the skin look perfect, but at the same time, natural. Below I will outline 3 basic ways to treat skin.

1. The over-blurred look.

This is the technique that I used for a long time. Basically, you just blur the skin. Many of the pre-canned, Photoshop plugins and actions use a version of this technique. Below, is an example of my work from my “over blurring” days. (However, I might add, having an inferior camera didn’t help.)

Blurring skin is much less realistic looking

Blurring skin is much less realistic looking

 2. Frequency Separation

This is a technique developed by some of the photographers on Model Mayhem. It deals with tonality and texture on separate layers, which produces a less destructive result. Here is one of my images using this technique. You can learn this technique from Model Mayhem HERE.

Frequency Separation - a much better alternative

Frequency Separation – a much better alternative

 3. Dodge and Burn

This is the least destructive technique, however, you will spend about 4 hours on an image. I don’t use this method, simply because I don’t have that much time. The link HERE explains the method. This image is from a good friend of mine, Rey Sison, from California.

Image courtesy of Rey Sison

Image courtesy of Rey Sison


Looking forward to sharing some more great tips in my upcoming class!

David Falk

There are only limited spaces available, so be sure to register for the Model Photography Workshop as soon as possible!

How to find the print size

How to find the print size?

File size Vs print size?

This is a question that we are asked frequently. As always there is a ton of technical information available, which I don’t have space to cover here.  I will give you some basic guidelines, such as defining file size and how to decide if a file is big enough to meet your client’s print requirements.

First we should know the pixel dimensions of our cameras. By using this information, you can calculate the file size that your camera can create. Here’s a good website for calculation.

Now I know my file size, how can I figure out the optimal print size?

As a rule of thumb, for the best photo quality, you should create your final work with 300 dpi as the output resolution when using wet printers (those in commercial photofinishing labs). Inkjet, pigment, and dye-sub printers can print a very high quality image using only 120 dpi. So, let’s put this information to work:

Here is the pixel count of a 12 MP camera in large setting: 4256 x 2832.  This is the native resolution for this camera. If you want to know how big a photo lab printer can enlarge your image, simply divide each number by 300 to find out the size.



So 14×9.5 inches is the optimum size for great photo quality from a wet lab.

Unlike monitors, typical high quality print resolutions range from 180 dpi on the low end to 360 dpi for professional quality results. Another big difference is that these print resolutions aren’t fixed in the printer the way they are in a monitor. You can take the same file and send it to the printer at any resolution setting you choose. Basically when you do this you’re telling the printer how far apart to place the individual pixels on the printed page. Place them too far apart and your image will take on a blocky, digitized look. Place them unnecessarily close, like 720 dpi, and you’ll be limited to a very small print with no added quality. Remember that resolution tag that was ignored for web use? Well it’s exactly what we need to control printing resolution for hard copy output, so we can’t ignore it any longer. Unlike your web browser, your printing program looks at the resolution tag and uses the value you enter there to control the printer itself.

A word about printer resolutions

When we buy photo quality printers, we see advertised resolutions like 1440 dpi and not the measly 300 dpi described above. Colour printers create their wide range of photo quality colours by placing tiny droplets of different ink colours down, to create all the combinations of colour and brightness. A big number, like 1440 dpi, is a good thing in a high quality printer, but it’s not the resolution you care about when sending a file to the printer.  There are a lot of terminology debates raging in the photo world such as: dpi vs. ppi vs. other ways to describe resolution.  I use the term dpi (dots per inch) to describe actual droplets of ink like the 2880×1440 micro droplets of ink placed on the page by my Epson printer or in the places where it’s just historical convention like 72 dpi.  I use the term ppi (pixels per inch) to describe the much larger pixels displayed on a screen or sent to the printer.  Others use these terms differently.  Just remember that a pixel is the smallest piece of colour and tone information in a digital image and a photo quality printer uses a whole bunch of tiny droplets of ink to synthesize each pixel on the printed page.

Using print resolution to control print sizes

So now you’ve got some control on sizing your prints by adjusting the resolution setting. But what are the tradeoffs? Let’s start with our earlier example of a 12 MP camera’s native file at 4256 x 2832 pixels, printed at 300 dpi gives us a quality print of 14.2” x 9.4”.  Print it at 240 dpi and the same file gives you a 17.8”x11.8” print and at 180 dpi you’ll get a whopping 23.6”x15.7” print. All from the same native file, without any image resizing. Of course, there’s no free lunch: as you print at lower resolutions you’ll eventually reach the point where the individual pixels are spread too far apart on the page and your image will suffer.

How far can you push the resolution to get big prints?

Well that’s up to you and depends on your printer, the paper and inks you use, and your own quality standards. There’s no absolute here, but many folks consider 300 dpi the gold standard for high quality output on modern ink jet/wet photo printers. It’s such a common high quality setting, that it has earned the name high res and is a standard image resolution in the publishing industry.

For other types of printers, please check the menu of your printer.

These websites offer more useful information.

Mega Pixel Chart

This ONE  is very informative.

This one has some visual Samples.

And, last but not the least, is this ONE and I recommend everyone reads this article. It has a good explanation about different formats as well.

Now there’s another good reason to shoot RAW!

Do you want to know more about how these variables affect our editing capability and prints?

Visit our Workshop page and Sign up for our Photoshop and Lightroom workshops.  Class size is limited! Please book your spot soon!

That’s all for now.  As always, we appreciate your comments.  Please send comments, questions and suggestions.

Do you have suggestions for future tutorials? Please send your suggestions and comments to:

Stay tuned for more tips on photo editing.

Ted and the Omnilargess team


Removing Colour Cast in Photoshop

Removing Colour Cast in Photoshop

One of the most important and the most difficult task in Photoshop and Photoshop Elements editing is removing the colour cast.

How can you see the Colour Cast?

Colour cast is very difficult to see. You need to have the experience for recognizing the colours and then find out what colour or tonality you need to work on to remove the colour cast. In our Colour in Photoshop class you will learn how to identify the colour cast and and you will learn how to use the tools that you have in your editing software.

Here is a little tutorial that shows you how important colour is in your digital photography.

1- Open an image in Photoshop

[singlepic id=336 w=320 h=240 float=none]

2-First thing first, Create or duplicate the layer

[singlepic id=337 w=320 h=240 float=none]

3- Go to Image>Adjustments>Levels

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4- As you can see in this image it needs a little adjustment on Bright point

[singlepic id=339 w=320 h=240 float=none]

5- By adjusting the Bright point you will see the difference

[singlepic id=340 w=320 h=240 float=none]

6- For next step go to Image> adjustment> Color Balance

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7- You have three colour sliders at the top and Three radio buttons at the bottom

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8- In this image I know that the Mid Tone needs to be adjusted, so I selected the Mid Tone In Radio Button. I started to adjust the colours in Mid Tones by moving the sliders

[singlepic id=343 w=320 h=240 float=none]

9- Now you can see the difference it makes in to your photos when you remove the Colour Cast properly by turning on and off the top layer

[singlepic id=344 w=320 h=240 float=none] [singlepic id=345 w=320 h=240 float=none]

And job is done! Here is the Before

[singlepic id=346 w=320 h=240 float=none]

And here is the After

[singlepic id=347 w=320 h=240 float=none]

What a big difference!

Sign up for our Colour in Photoshop class Or add your name to Waiting list to learn more about editing colour.

Ted and Omnilargess Team



Infrared action for Photoshop

Make a Pseudo Infrared Action in Photoshop?

Stay tuned for more info about our new photography and Photoshop workshops in January.

This month we encourage you to sharpen your Photoshop skills by creating new Actions. If you find something interesting to share, we’d like to hear about it. Send a copy of the Action to our Photoshop Team.

We’ll publish it in our newsletter with your name, so everyone can enjoy the speed and ease of use of Actions.

Let’s get to the Infrared Action!

I miss the infrared look in some of my images. How can I make a Pseudo Infrared Action in Photoshop?

For the best results, choose a picture photographed in nice weather, with a uniformly blue sky, clouds, and green foliage. The effect will be strongest in this type of photo.

1- Open an image in Photoshop (you need Photoshop CS or newer).

2- Go to Action tab and select Create new action.

3-In the new action window, choose a name for your new action. For this example I called it Infrared filter.

4- Click on the Record button and the actions you select will be recorded.

5- On the Layers palette, click Adjustment Layer (a black-and-white circle) to choose Selective Color mode.

At the bottom of the Selective Color Options window, set Method to Absolute, and change the color channels to the following values:

Reds channel: Cyan: -100, Magenta: -100, Yellow: 0

Yellows channel: Cyan: 0, Magenta: -100, Yellow: 0

Greens channel: Cyan: 0, Magenta: -100, Yellow: 0

Cyans channel: Cyan: -100, Magenta: +100, Yellow: -100

Blues channel: Cyan: -100, Magenta: +100, Yellow: -100

You don’t need to change the values for any other channels. At this point you have a nice Cross processing effects!

6- Make a new Adjustment Layer, this time selecting Channel Mixer. In the Channel Mixer window select Monochrome at the bottom, and set the color channels to the following values:

Red –50, Green +160, Blue –50.

7- Select the selective color layer and adjust the opacity for final tone ratio. In this example I set it at 80%.

8-After completing these steps, merge the layers by clicking Layer/Flatten Image. If you like infrared images with a less digital feel, you can add a “glowing grains” effect with the Diffuse Glow filter. Filter/Distort/Diffuse Glow.

9-Go to Action tab again and click on stop button.

And that’s all there is to creating this unique effect. To do more of the same type, just open an image, select the Infrared filter action and click the play button. Your infrared image will be ready in no time!

Caution: Because the color channels of digital cameras contain only partial information relative to the whole image, the above mixing and shifting of the channels may lead to a severe loss of detail and sharpness, as well increasing the appearance of color noise.

Ted and Omnilargess Team

Don’t miss next week’s classes!

We had such a great time at our Night Scene Class last week, so make sure you don’t miss next week’s classes!


Tons of fun with slow shutters and disappearing people!

We have three upcoming classes next week:

Lightroom 102

The second class in Jonathan’s awesome Lightroom series. So many great reviews from his first class, this one is a must!

Compact Digital Camera Workshop

A class for anyone who has a camera and has no idea where to start. Finally something for those who do not have DSLR’s or interchangeable lens cameras. Even if you only have the camera on your data phone, you can learn a few great tips to controlling your image.

Mom’s 101 (digital photography 101 for women)

This one is for the beginner who wants to learn some of the settings that will get you out of automatic mode. It builds the foundation for the Mom’s 102 class a couple weeks away, and is designed with women in mind in recognition of Mother’s Day. You do not have to be a mom to participate.

Be sure to check out our Facebook Group for a few more images from our Night Scene Photography class. It was such a blast!

Private Photography Classes for Fraser Valley Have Arrived

Private and small group Photography classes Fraser Valley

Forging ahead with more great news every day, we would like to announce that we are now offering one-on-one and small group, private Photography and Editing classes.

Have you tried to attend a large group class and found it to be either too slow for you or too fast for you?

Do you have specific needs with regards to photography or editing that do not seem to fall into the classes that we have currently listed on our site?

Do you find yourself better able to learn one-on-one or in a small group setting? Our private classes may be just what you are looking for!

Private classes give more time for YOU!

Private classes give more time for YOU!

To get started with our private lessons, we will have you fill out a form, and then meet with you to discuss what your needs are. Once we know the specific areas you need to work on, we can customize a plan just for you! If you would like to learn as a small group of 2 or more people, you can save on the cost of the instruction, as well as have a lesson plan unique to your needs. We welcome businesses or companies looking to hold private group classes for employees or a fun team-building exercise. Other groups who are looking for Private, tailor-made photography or editing classes need look no further!

Small Group photography workshop, Flash photography

Small Group photography workshop, Flash photography

Please visit our Private Classes page to learn how we can meet your instructional needs!

Omnilargess Workshop Team

Photoshop Elements Layers

Photoshop Layers Tutorial 1

Layers, in image editing, are so important, that whether you are using Photoshop CS or Photoshop Elements you will find them indispensable to your editing workflow. You may already know what layers are, but you don’t see what’s so great about them. Let us open your eyes to the multitude of things you can accomplish quickly and easily with the use of layers. Your editing workflow will be revolutionized! There are so many things that are possible, once you understand layers, that we had to split our editing classes into four in order to cover it all.

Have you ever taken a photo and wished you had used a wider aperture so that the background was more blurred and the subject stood out more? Or have you ever wished that certain parts of your photo were sharpened just a little more, but not your entire image? Wish no longer. Making simple changes to specific areas of a photo is possible thanks to the capability of Layers in Photoshop. When making multiple changes to an image, you can easily go back and remove or adjust one or more of your changes; should you decide that you need to. Most editing software out there allow you to make many changes to a single image, but if you decide you want to remove one element, they require you to start from the beginning again. Not so with Photoshop!

If you are interested in speeding up your workflow and making things easier to change or undo in a photograph – think seriously about signing up for our Intro to Layers workshop. We will give you several essential skills and steps that you will find invaluable on your quest to improve your photos. Here are a few samples of just the very simplest of effects you can achieve through the use of layers in Photoshop:

1- Open the image in Photoshop


2- Create 2 layers


3- Select the top layer and go to Image>Adjustments>Black & White and Change the top layer in to Sepia

[singlepic=89,600,400,watermark] [singlepic=90,600,400,watermark]

4- You can make a layer visible or invisible just by clicking the EYE icon in Layers Pallet

[singlepic=91,600,400,watermark] [singlepic=92,600,400,watermark]

5-Select Eraser from your Tool Pallet


6- Start erasing parts of the top layer that you don’t want to be Sepia


7- Now you can even push the editing further by selecting the top layer and go to Filter>Blur> Lens Blur... and add Blur filter to only the top layer

[singlepic=95,600,400,watermark] [singlepic=96,600,400,watermark] [singlepic=97,600,400,watermark]

8- Here is one of the most powerful functions of Layer. Now I decided that I don’t like the sepia effect I just want to make the Background out of focus. See the steps:

[singlepic=98,600,400,watermark] [singlepic=99,600,400,watermark][singlepic=100,600,400,watermark][singlepic=101,600,400,watermark][singlepic=102,600,400,watermark]

This is a short tutorial video for you to see how powerful Layers are when you understand the work fellow.


Consider signing up for our Intro to Layers workshop now! Space is limited. If the timing does not work with your schedule, put yourself on a waiting list or sign up for our newsletter and you will be the first to know about any upcoming workshops as well.

Sign me up

Ted and Omnilargess Team

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